If you prefer to work in the spring sun instead of waiting at the customer reception in an industrial area you should change wheels yourself.
To shift from winter to summer wheels and vice versa is simple. The owner’s handbook is, however, very thin and the only thing written is really that “tools for changing wheels are available as optional accessories from the Service centre”. Obviously, most of the BMW i3 owners will shift tyres at a workshop, but sometimes it can be easier and faster to do it yourself than to make an appointment and go somewhere to change.
Jack mounting points are marked in the manual and the only thing you need is a jack and wrench (I used #17).
The only problem I had was that the wheels were stuck so hard that I thought i3 maybe had some extra lock or mount that regular cars do not have. The bolts were removed but I could not get the wheels off. Could it be something with the tyre pressure system RDC? Now I know that it is just to hit hard at the sides to disengage the wheel.
That the wheels were stuck seem to be due to rust at the hub. i3 is largely built of carbon fibre, but here it is steel with some rust as a result.
When mounting the new wheels one should note that the rear tyres are slightly wider than the front wheels (175/60 rear and 155/70 front). Some tyres may have a specific rotation, always marked on the outside of the tyre.
When the wheels are shifted the tyre pressure should be checked. The desired tyre pressure is indicated on a plate attached to the rear door on the driver side. If usually driving alone or with just one passenger the pressure in front tyres should be 2.3 bar (33 PSI) and rear 2.8 bar (41 PSI).
Finally, the tyre pressure system RDC should be reset through the iDrive system in the car.